School of the Horse
Definition and Object of Horse
Training
By horse training we mean a series of exercises that render
the horse obedient to the riders demands, while preserving and developing the
horse’s inherent qualities.
The objective is not to simply master and control the
instincts of the animal; it must also subject him to a muscular training, that
through suppling, will strengthen all parts of the body. As a result, his gaits
will be perceptibly developed by the very harmony of his movements and by the
exact distribution of his weight enhanced by the influence of the riders aids.
Circumstances
Affecting Duration of Training.
The length and value of the service that a horse can render
depends, in great measure, upon the manner in which he has been trained. A colt
should be called upon for only such exercise or work as is reasonable,
considering his age, strength and ability. To exact anything beyond his
capabilities is to set up resistance which inevitably leads injuries.
The breeding of a horse, the nature of his feed and the
amount of work he has been performing in the hands of his previous owner, are
considerations that will allow us to project a scheduled timeline of
incremental improvement. Training, when once begun, must be regulated by these
same considerations. It is self evident that a horse kept on grass until he is
four years old needs more nursing than the horse that was raised almost from
birth on oats.
It is also obvious that conditions of training will differ
widely according to the skill of the person in charge. An experienced horseman
will finish the work more satisfactorily and more quickly The composure that is
derived from experience will enable him to start young horses with less
difficulty because, in seasoned hands there will be less of those struggles that
produce blemished animals.
Finally the time required for training will vary according
to the object to be attained. Many long months are often necessary to work a young
horse up to high school exercises. While in some cases only a few weeks will be
sufficient to produce a horse that moves freely at the three gaits and is galloping
with either lead.
Three
Periods of Training.
The training of a young horse may be divided into three
periods:
Preliminary work;
Work in the snaffle bridle; Work in the double bridle.
Preliminary work.
In this first period the horse is gentled. He is taught to allow himself to be
saddled and mounted, to go straight ahead at the walk and trot, to turn to the
right and to the left.
Work on the longe should properly be taken up in the
preliminary period.
Outside work may be begun.
Work in the snaffle
bridle. The horse is first brought to a thorough understanding of the
effects of the rider’s legs. He is next taught to obey the simple effects of
the snaffle.
At the end of this period the horse should understand work
at the three gaits on the three lines he should know how to take the gallop
with either lead, and how to work on two tracks at the walk and at the trot.
In this second period, outside work will continue or begun.
Work in the double
bridle which may be subdivided into two parts:
All work with the snaffle is repeated with the double
bridle. Instruction is completed as regards the upper aids. The horse is confirmed
in his work at the gallop finally is taught the change of lead. Here is where
ordinary training stops; training sufficient for the horse of the trooper.
The horse and rider should be able to move straight line, on
the diagonal and in a circle. One the diagonal -where the fore and hind feet do
not follow the same track, e. g. in passaging.
The double bridle period is preparatory for high school work
in which the obedience of the horse is further developed through a system of
exercises which increases both suppleness and strength. The horse begins to acquire
cadence in gaits and becomes lighter, more balanced.
High school work might be considered as a fourth period and
the animal would then be taught the different manners and steps, such as the
high trot, in place and gaining ground, and the change of lead with each stride.
Preliminary Work –
Excercise by Leading - When young horses, sent from remount depots or by
purchasing hoards, arrive at the station, the squadron commander should place
them all together in the best stable of the squadron, turn them over to
troopers known to be fond of horses and make sure that all precautionary and
hygienic measures are taken to gradually accustom them to changed conditions
and to handling by men.
Young horses should be exercised daily; at first by men on
foot and later led beside kind old horses. This exercise, which is at a walk,
is of great advantage not only to strengthen the animals but to quiet them by
making them familiar with outside objects. The only drawback is that,
ordinarily, the mistake is made of invariably leading the horses on the same
side. They eventually acquire a false set of the neck which could be easily
avoided by holding them for a time on the left as well as on the right.
Care of Young Horses.
After each exercise, the legs are rubbed and the tendons massaged. Following a
wash down with plenty of water, the application of flannel bandages produces
highly beneficial results to the fetlocks and tendons; the bandages retain the heat,
help circulation, support the tendons, prevent windpuffs and swellings.
Put on in the stable, they should encircle the fetlock and
the lower half of the cannon. They must not be too tight; the fastening tapes
in particular should be somewhat loose. It is useless to leave flannel bandages
on the legs all the time; the important thing is to put them on after exercise;
during the five or six hours following hard work they are especially
efficacious.
In addition to the precautions generally adopted, it is well
to see that the blanket strap or surcingle is fastened around the place where
the saddle girth belongs and not pushed forward to the horse's elbows; the
object being to prevent the formation of two worn places.
Work on the Longe.
This work may be of great service in horse training, provided, however, that
the longe is used as a means of training and not as a method of fatiguing
exercise.
The following principles must dominate in this work:
1. The horse is to be controlled by the longe and not by the
whip; the only function of the latter is to move the horse forward.
2. The length of the longe is to be frequently changed. The
horse should alternately stretch himself on a large circle and bend himself on
a small circle.
The gaits should be frequently changed and the horse brought
to the walk from time to time in order to avoid the stiffness of gait that
would result from prolonged work.
The progressive method of handling a horse on the longe can be
used to advantage:
1. To exercise young horses without injury and without
fatigue to the joints.
2. To give first lessons to horses difficult to manage.
3. For horses that hold back or fight.
4. For horses with one shoulder more developed than the
other.
5. For those that will not work equally well on either
hand.
6. For horses that bend themselves with difficulty.
7. After horses have acquired the habit of this work,
lessons in jumping on the longe can be given later without difficulty; horses
should not be put at the jump until they are thoroughly manageable with the
cavesson and longe.
What is Meant by the Aids?
The aids are different means employed by the rider to convey
commands or intentions to the horse.
Into What Classes are
Aids Divided? The aids may be divided into natural and artificial. The
natural aids arc the hands and legs; the artificial aids are: the spur, the
whip, the voice, the pat, the longe, the longeing whip and the padded posts.
The hands are called the upper aids and the legs, the lower
aids. Some horsemen make use of the terms principal and supplementary to designate
the natural and artificial aids respectively.
From the standpoint of the execution of a movement the aids
are classed as decisive and controlling
The ‘natural’ are indispensable to the execution of the
movement and have a dominating action; the ‘artifical’ are merely useful, and
participate only in setting the horse to advantage and in making the movement
regular.
A final division into lateral and diagonal aids results from
the manner in which the aids are combined. In the first case, the rider uses
simultaneously the rein and the leg on the same side; in the second case, he
uses the rein on one side and the leg on the opposite side.
Function of the
Hands. It is the business of the hands, through the medium of the reins, to
communicate to the horse his rider's will, to regulate the horse's gaits, to
halt him and to back him.
Their principal function is the control of the forehand, the
impulse having been given previously by the legs.
Considered separately, each rein can produce four important
and distinct effects:
1. Front to rear
effect. The rider pulls on the two reins alike, without pressing them on
the neck and without opening the wrists. If the horse is moving, he will
decrease the gait or halt; if the horse, is halted, he wall move backward.
2. Opening effect.
The rider opens the right rein by carrying the wrist to the front and right.
The horse's head will be drawn to the right and he will move in that direction.
This is the direct rein.
3. Bearing or pushing
effect. By pressing the left rein against the neck, the mass (forehand) is
pushed to the right and the horse faces in that direction - this is the
indirect rein, sometimes called the supporting rein.*
4. Opposing effect.
The rider opens the right rein lightly and then pulls either in the direction
of the right haunch or in the direction of the left haunch. He is then said to
set the shoulders in opposition to the haunches. The rein of opposition comes
to the aid of the leg on the same side when the latter's action is insufficient
or incomplete.
* In the U. S. Cavalry
drill regulations a horse is described as "rein wise when he obeys the
lightest pressure of the rein on either side of the neck, the bit not being
disturbed from its normal position." It is to be noted that the horse has
learned to obey this pressure (3rd effect) through its association with the
opening of the leading rein as prescribed in paragraph 315 D. R. (2d effect.)
When the rider uses the direct or leading rein, there must be sufficient
tension on the other rein to prevent the bit from "being disturbed from
its normal position" and the other rein is also pressed against the neck
to support the action of the direct rein. In general there must be combined
action of the reins just as there must be combined action of the legs (See
"Unison of the legs" in the next question), and this fact should be
kept in view in the discussion of the distinct effects produced by the reins.
The text reads: "Considered separately, each rein, etc." which might
be erroneously construed as: "Each rein, acting alone, etc." {The
Board)
Function of the Legs.
The
legs act on the hind quarters their business is to communicate the rider's will
to the horse in order to move him straight to the front and make him extend or
increase his gaits and to start him in movements of all kinds. It is also their
special business to control the haunches; to restrict them to the direction pursued
by the shoulders or to swing them in reference to the shoulders. Finally they
are used to collect the horse by bringing his hind legs closer to the center of
gravity.
To recapitulate, the legs have three effects:
1. To produce a forward movement.
2. To swing the haunches in reference to the shoulders.
3. To bring the hind legs under.
The simultaneous action of both legs produces a double
pressure to which the horse should respond by moving to the front.
The action of a single leg, while it incites motion, forces
the weight of the hind quarters toward the opposite side. Thus, for instance,
if the rider closes his left leg, he produces two effects: a general forward
movement of the mass and a right lateral movement of the haunches.
Unison of the Legs.
Whenever one leg acts to swing the haunches, the opposite leg must receive the
mass in order to limit and rectify the movement. The legs, therefore, should
always be close enough to the horse to act without sudden jolts and to lend
mutual assistance.
A horse is in the legs, when he obeys at the slightest
indication and when the gentle closing of the calves is sufficient to make him
move out boldly to the front.*
In the U. S. Cavalry Drill Regulations a horse is described as ‘Leg
Wise’
when he obeys the lightest correct combined action of the rider's
legs."
Perfect obedience to the legs is to be considered as the
characteristic sign of successful training.
In the use of the horse everything is based upon the
movement to the front; the upper aids merely utilize and direct the impulse
produced by the lower aids; and, if this impulse is wanting or is incomplete,
the horse escapes more or less from the rider's control. We have said several
times that the lesson of the legs must take precedence over all others and that
it is necessary to return to this lesson every few minutes during the whole
period of the instruction of the young horse.
A horse is behind the legs, when he remains indifferent to
their action either through sluggishness or unwillingness.
A horse behind the legs, is, as a natural result, behind the
bit. He is completely out of his rider's control; this is the beginning of
obstinacy.
Length of Stirrups.
Our regulations (French) say: "The stirrups are suitably adjusted if the
tread of the stirrup is level with the top of the boot heel, when the trooper
is sit- ting properly on his horse, with the knees closed and the legs hanging
naturally."
GENERAL GUY V. HENRY, SEVENTH UNITED STATES CAVALRY
In his treatise on equitation. Count d'Aure admits the same
principle but states it less precisely. According to him, "the tread of
the stirrup, before the foot is inserted, should be at the height of the
rider's heel."
In the Austrian cavalry the stirrups are worn somewhat
shorter. Their regulations say: "The trooper adjusts the stirrups so that
the tread shall be about one inch above the seam at the heels. If, from this
adjustment, the trooper stands in his stirrups, there will be a space of four
fingers between his crotch and the saddle."
The German regulations give the same instructions as the
Austrian. (See also par. 846, U. S. Cavalry Drill Regulations).
When the stirrups are too long, the rider is said to be on
his crotch (fork seat); he loses all stability; his legs flap about the sides
of the horse and act with neither strength nor accuracy.
When the stirrups are too short, they support more than the
weight of the legs; they raise the knees and thighs and force the seat back.
The trooper is then said to be hung up, and, although he has a stronger support
in the stirrups, he is less secure because he is not so far down in the saddle.
Moreover, the legs necessarily become rigid: they lose all freedom of movement
and in consequence all nicety (of action as aids).
The stirrups then, should be neither too long nor too short.
But of the two faults the latter is the more serious; a trooper can shorten his
stirrups without anxiety, whereas he feels a certain reluctance about
lengthening them. It is to be noticed that the man who loses his suppleness or
his confidence always has a tendency to diminish the length of his stirrup
straps.
Position of the Foot
in the Stirrup. At least one third of the foot should be inserted into the
stirrup; the heel should be slightly lower than the toe; the part of the sole
of the foot included between the joint of the great toe and the little toe
(ball of the foot) should rest upon the tread.
The support should be secured mainly on the inside portion
of the foot; this method results in closing the knee and holding the lower leg
in proper position.
Handling the Reins
Holding the Snaffle Reins. When the horse is ridden in the
snaffle bridle, the rider takes one rein in each hand, the reins coming in on
the under side of the little finger, and coming out over the second joint of
the forefinger, on which the thumb firmly holds the rein; the other fingers
closed on the reins, nails toward the body. Hands about six inches apart, on a
level with the elbows, backs straight up and down and outward". (U. S.
Cavalry Drill Regulations, Par. 195.)
With the double snaffle, the rider takes two reins in each
hand. The reins of the lower snaffle bit (corresponding to the curb bit) pass
between the third and little finger; the reins of the upper snaffle bit pass
under the little finger and both reins are held upon the forefinger by the
thumb as explained above.
Holding the Double
Bridle Reins. With horses that pull hard and more especially with horses
that struggle or fight, it is a distinct advantage to hold the reins in English
fashion, that is, with two reins in each hand as described above for the double
snaffle.*
* To take the double
bridle reins in one hand ( the left turn
the right wrist to the left until the back of the right hand is up; move the
right hand to the left and insert the second finger of the left hand between the
two reins (right snaffle rein uppermost). All four reins are held upon the
second joint of the forefinger by the thumb.
To pass the reins from
the left hand to the right hand; turn over the back of the left hand to the
right and insert the extended fingers of the right hand between the reins in
such a manner that there will be a rein over each finger (left snaffle rein
uppermost), the four reins coming out under the little finger instead of above
the forefinger.
If the hands are
habitually held back up, as is frequently done, the passing of the four reins
from one hand to the other is much simplified. (The Board).
Handling the Reins.
It is absolutely necessary to accustom riders to handle the reins skilfully.
All work on the reins must be varied, smooth and progressive.
These results cannot be obtained unless the rider is thoroughly supple in the
shoulders, arms and wrists and has clever fingers. The reins must be changed
from hand to hand, must be separated and reunited not only without jerks but
also without failing to maintain the proper tension.
It should also be added that handling the reins understandingly
and skilfully is an indirect method of making a horse's mouth perfectly
straight. Changing hands frequently, will prevent the prolonged action that
worries the horse and causes faulty bends of the neck. Riders who hold the
reins constantly in the same hand and in the same manner, always have horses
with stiff necks set to one side.
Precautions in Saddling.
Requirements of a
Good Saddle. A good saddle should satisfactorily meet the following
requirements:
The padding should be done in a way to secure perfect
balance of the saddle. Too high behind, the saddle will throw the whole weight
of the rider into the stirrups.
1. Too high in front, it will throw him back and diminish the
grip of the thighs and prevent proper set of the knees.
2. The pommel arch should be wide enough to allow the saddle
to be used on nearly all horses and to be set far enough back.
3. The seat should not be too flat and the rider should not
feel the outer edges of the bars of the tree under his thighs.
4. The straps for the girth should be set well forward. If
the line of traction of the girth were too far to the rear, the saddle would
rock and, rising in front, would work up toward the withers.
How a Horse Should be
Saddled. The saddle should be placed far enough back but it is impossible
to give any fixed rule. Its proper place depends upon the conformation of the
horse. A horse with a good back and a well marked girth place is easy to
saddle; it is the reverse in the case of one with short ribs or big belly or
hollow shoulders.
The matter of saddling, although often neglected, is of
great importance. Everything in riding hinges on balance and balance will be
handicapped from the start if the rider is seated too close to the withers and
is unduly overloading the forehand.
In order to accustom horses to their equipment, they should
he saddled during the period when they are exercised by leading. Initially the
saddle is put on without stirrups or stirrup straps; it must not be placed too
far back, and on leaving the stable, the girth should be tightened only
slightly. The girths are readjusted during the exercise.
When handling nervous horses, it makes good sense to use the
longe to quiet them by doing a little work before placing the saddle on their
back.
After the horses have become accustomed to the saddle and
the girth, the stirrups should be replaced and allowed to hang down on each
side during several successive exercises. In this manner the horse will be
perfectly prepared for the lesson in mounting which becomes that much more
simple; early resistance frequently results from both saddling and mounting a
horse for the first time on the same day.
Mounting Lesson.
At first the trooper should get into the saddle as skillfully as possible
without any attempt to mount by the numbers, and especially without being in
any way exacting.
The lesson should be given after the horse has been worked
for some time or near the end of his normal work. An assistant stands facing
each horse’s head. The trooper approaches the horse's head, caresses him on the
forehead, on the eyes, the neck and the haunches. He slaps the saddle, pulls
the stirrups out and lets them drop back; he then grasps the reins, leaving
them very long. He mounts the horse without hurry but also without hesitation.
If, during the lesson, the horse backs or moves away, the
trooper returns to the animal's head, leads him up a step or two with the
snaffle reins and gently begins the lesson anew.
After seating himself in the saddle, the trooper should use
his right hand to assist in engaging the off side stirrup. By feeling for the
stirrup with the toe there is danger of frightening the horse, touching him
unintentionally with the leg or stirrup.
Restless Animals.
The assistants should stand squarely in front of the horses and not on the off
side. Their business is to simply caress the animal's head without holding the
reins.
With horses that are hard to mount, the ‘Scotch Hobble’
should be used, the off side hind foot tied up.
Mounting lessons should be given on the off side as well as
on the near side and should be repeated daily until the horse stands absolutely
quiet. The (individual) lesson, however, should not be prolonged for the horse
will have greater tendency to become restless the more he is held in one place.
First
Lesson in Mounted Work.
If a riding arena is available horses should be worked from
the beginning without regard to distances. The troopers are more at ease when
they need not concern themselves about distances traveled. Standards that are
often hard to meet with horses moving with very uneven gaits. Moreover, it is a
bad plan to always group young horses, as they thus acquire the habit of
"sticking in ranks." If, from the start, it is necessary to work on
the road, a couple of perfectly sure old horses must be placed at the head of
the young ones in order to set them an example in quiet behavior and free
movement.
Necessity of Using
the Trot at the Beginning of a Lesson.
There are several advantages in using the trot to begin
work:
1. It starts the horses correctly by moving straight ahead
and brings it brings them in hand; busy at the trot they have less idea of
resisting, they have an occupied mind, the rider is in their head, not just on
their back.
2. A prolonged trot expends the stored up energy (takes the
edge off) in young horses, and they will become quiet and attentive to the
training after the physical exertion.
3. This gait must be considered as the best of suppling
exercises. In his book on equitation, La Gueriniere has a chapter entitled "The
necessity of the trot and the utility of the walk."
In this chapter he says: "By the trot, the most
natural of the gaits, a horse is made light on the hand without spoiling his
mouth and his legs are stretched without straining them because in this action,
which is the highest of all natural gaits, the weight of the horse is borne
equally by two legs, one front and one hind; as a result the two others are
easily raised, sustained in the air and stretched to the front, thus giving a
first stage of suppling to all parts of the body. The trot, therefore, without
controversy, is the foundation of all lessons to make a horse obedient and
clever."
Resistance of Young
Horses. The instructor must forbid any punishment in the first lessons
because it often happens that when a horse frets, it is not being rebellious,
the behavior is more a matter of timidity or of high spirits or ignorance of
the standard.
Importance of the Straight Ahead Movement.
Above everything else, the horse and rider must move freely
straight ahead. That objective is the first of the riding lessons; We start the
saddle training by making the horse accustomed to yielding to the action of the
rider’s legs. Primarily it is essentially a sign of the horse being docile; exhibiting
the full or the limited obedience of the horse is illustrated in this first session.
It will provide an indication of a whether the horse will require a brief or more
protracted period of training.
To Accustom the Horse
to Go Straight Ahead Under the Action of the Legs. The use of leg aids is
without question the most important lesson in the training regimen and there is
good reason to return to it during the whole period of training. For the first
occasion observe the following rules:
Never keep the lower leg glued to the horse's flank, but use
repeated taps with the calves.
Tap the horse near the girth and do not reach
too far back.
Begin by giving the lesson when passing from the walk to the
trot, next when lengthening the trot and finally when passing from the halt to
the trot.
The rider should allow the horse to anticipate and assist
the action of the legs by clucking with the tongue or using light taps with a
quirt.
These rules are especially applicable to arena sessions. In
outside work on a road or trail the horses have a natural tendency to go
straight ahead, following the experienced horses at the head of the squad.
Lightness - When to
be Exacted. A horse is considered light when he obeys easily and promptly
the commands of the rider. This is not just a matter of flexibility of the jaw
and suppleness of neck, but rather of balance. The degree of lightness
corresponds to the finished balance of the horse.
In the first sessions there should be no concerns about
lightness, as lightness will be be developed as a result of training. The horse
that cannot easily be controlled by the legs, that is not well suppled in the
shoulders and does not know how to properly employ its haunches, he can not be
really light.
Not until later can perfect balance (or lightness if you
please) be obtained and then only by coordinating the different results of
training lessons.
The Principle of
Constant Tension on the Reins. Although the instructor during the first
weeks of training need not concern himself with the lightness of the horse, he
must urge the troopers to keep a constant light tension (feel) on the reins. At
first the rider must maintain pressure on the reins. Later the horse accustomed
to the contact of the bit, will associate it with going straight ahead. Soon,
and of its own accord, the horse will keep the reins taut.
It is important to distinguish between pulling on the reins
and the principle of keeping a constant tension on the reins. When the rider’s
hand is too rigidly fixed, with fingers firmly clasped, it opposes the free
play of the neck and is contrary to the principles we are trying to obtain
Therefore, in the leg lesson when forcing the horse straight
ahead, the hand must not oppose the stretching of the neck; on the contrary,
the fingers should be slightly opened up so that nothing can clash with the
animal's intention to obey the aids.
To put a young horse
into his bridle is to make him take hold of his bit and bear on it properly
whenever he moves forward under the impulse of both legs. The horse produces
the proper tension on the reins. If a
horse fails to bear on the bit and to tighten the reins when the legs urge him
forward he is said to be "Behind the Bit.'' (The Board)
The Halt - How to Halt a Young Horse.
To halt, lean back slightly and pull on the reins with
gradually increasing force in order to slow and then stop movement.
When the rider pulls on the reins, the horse should neither
raise nor lower the head. The muzzle should remain to the front and the whole
mass of the neck should flow back towards the withers. In other words, under
the action of the reins the horse should neither throw his nose up in the air
nor bring it down against his chest, closing up on the hand. This latter fault
is particularly to be avoided. It is more difficult to raise the muzzle than to
lower it and any horse that, at the beginning of training, withdraws from neck
control, becomes especially difficult to instruct.
Should Halts be
Frequent? The halt should not be frequently practiced on horses inclined to
fret nor on those whose hind legs set under and are liable to sit down on their
haunches. Halting should be often used in those cases where the conformation of
the horse throws too much weight on the shoulders. Training is nothing more
than a quest for balance and the halt can be a well utilized suppling exercise
for a horse with a high, powerful croup that makes him difficult to slow up.
The Change of
Direction - Aids to Use. To change direction and move to the right, the
rider should gently open the right rein by carrying the wrist to the front and
right, without moving the elbow or twisting the hand.
The effect of opening must be produced laterally and as
little as possible from front to rear. It induces a movement of the haunches
and furnishes the preliminary means of accustoming the horse to yield to the
pressure of one leg.
To change direction to the right, the aids to be used are
the right rein and the right leg.*
In the first lesson, the turning movement will not be
executed with precision but this is of small importance.
It is not a matter of bending the horse on a quarter circle,
as should be done with a trained horse. All that is necessary is to make the horse
understand what action results from the opening of one rein and the closing of
one leg.
When the leg and rein on the same side are used as aids,
they are called aids; they can also be referred to as lateral effects and
lateral equitation ( The Board)
Outdoor
Work.
Conditioning is not a Chapter apart in the education of the
young horse; conditioning and training run together and the horse acquires at
the same time habits of work and obedience. It would he a mistake to think that
the conditioning of a horse requires the jockey seat on a sanded track. Arena
work and outdoor exercise are generally sufficient.
When to Begin. Outside work should be begun as early as
possible. It is an advantage to take the horses out as soon as they know how to
go straight ahead and to turn to the right and left. Outdoor rides,
intelligently conducted, "put horses
into the bridle" and improve the carriage.
Moreover, this is a good way to quiet the animals as riders
are less exacting on the road than on the arena fence.
Combination
of Arena and Outside Work. This outside work must be combined with the lessons
in the arena. There is no necessity of feeling compelled to follow blindly a
set schedule such as to work on the road for six weeks and then stay inside for
several months. On the contrary it is of distinct advantage to alternate the
two and to have at least least two outdoor rides each week. However, the
officer in charge of training must base his schedule upon the deportment,
conformation and general condition of his horses. Horses in poor condition,
those that fret and that throw too much weight upon the hindquarters should be
taken out frequently. Clumsy horses and those that throw the weight on the
forehand should receive most of their work in the hall.
Choice of Ground.
If possible, soft ground should be selected. On hard ground the fetlock joints
become fatigued and the lower legs are liable to injury; the horse develops
windpuffs and splints. But it would be wrong to work over heavy ground; the
hocks would suffer and eventually spavins would appear.
When training has been completed, good results may be
obtained by riding a horse with loose reins over bad roads. This forces the
horse to take the initiative and since he is allowed complete freedom of the
head, he easily gets out of difficulties even on very bad ground.
Gaits. In outdoor
rides there should be alternation of the walk and trot, gradually increasing at
each outing the amount of time devoted to the trot. Towards the end of the
period of training the distances at a trot should be lengthened; but there
should always be intervals of at least ten minutes at a walk to allow the horse
to resume his normal breathing.
The gallop should not be used in outdoor work except upon
very good ground. If you have available only bad or fair footing, do not
gallop. By rigidly enforcing a schedule, regardless of conditions, the result
will inevitably be injury to the animals. In any case, galloping should not
begin outside until the rider is sure of his ability to make his horse lead off
freely with either foot. He can then work his mount equally on both sides and
can avoid those struggles that put a horse in the air during the whole ride.
Sweats. A horse
should not be sweated at the beginning of training, at least, not until his
disposition has been studied. As a rule any excess of fat disappears with ordinary
work.
When giving a sweat, a suitable day and hour should be selected,
the horse should be well covered, wrapping especially the parts where there is
most fat; work the horse a little at a walk and then gallop him steadily until he
is in profuse perspiration; do not hurry al)out scraping, but let the sweat
have plenty of time to exude uncover the horse little by little and scrape
slowly, bearing well on the edge of the scraper to force out the sweat; reblanket
the horse and lead him around at a walk for a few minutes; uncover and scrape
again; finally walk the horse until he is perfectly dry before returning him to
the stable.
There should always be an interval of about five days between
sweats and ordinarily three or four will be sufficient. Be careful that the
horse does not drink to excess at the next watering.
The first sweat is hard to bring; the third and fourth time
it comes more easily.
Sulphate of soda (Glauber or horse salts) is given dissolved
in the drinking water and has the great advantage of never irritating the
intestines. It must be given in large doses, 800 grammes at least. (9 1-2
ounces.)
Condition of the
Legs. Overexertion of the legs manifests itself in splints, windpuffs,
spavins and in the swelling and stiffening of the fetlock joints.
In case of swelling of the fetlocks and windpuffs. avoid
work on hard ground, and cut down the work: use douches and hand rubbing and
apply flannel bandages.
For splints, use red ointment (mercuric ointment - a
blister) as soon as the injury appears.
For bog spavins stop work in the arena and all collected
work at the gallop: exercise quietly on the road and use douches.
Appetite and Condition of the Horse. A young horse must be
given substantial nourishment in order to readily resist the first fatigues of
training and also because he is still growing at the age when his education is
undertaken. More or less hay according to the animal’s condition and always
plenty of oats. From time to time, every eight or ten days, a handful of
sulphate of soda can be given in the drinking water or in a mash to counteract
the heating effect produced by oats.
If horses are too fat. cut down the hay and also the water.
If the horses are in poor condition, give linseed mashes and put dry bran in
the oats: dry beans and carrots: in a word - variety. Frequently a horse
refuses to eat because he has been put on full oats too suddenly; in this case,
cut down the ration or even place the animal on diet for a time.
Results. In
conclusion - if outdoor work has been alternated with arena work in proper
ratio, the young horse, at the end of training, has lost any surplus fat: has
acquired muscle: his joints and tendons have been strengthened and his wind
developed. In short, after a length of time which varies with age, breeding and
disposition, the horse is in condition to undergo without injury the hardships
of the service for which he is destined.
Second Leg Lesson
First Suppling of the Haunches
We have already given the horse the first leg lesson in
reacting to leg aids – in the sessions involving moving straight to the front.
Where the rider was drilling his mount to yield to the action of the legs. The
training method employed increases suppleness when the horse yields to the
effect of one leg, carrying the haunches to the right or left.
This second lesson, which necessitates the crossing of the
hind legs and improves mobility in the hind quarters, is a most useful suppling
exercise for both horse and rider.
The best way to give a horse this second lesson is to use
half turns on the forehand in reverse; half turns on the forehand are nothing
more or less than abouts on the forehand made while marching.* For example,
marching on the right hand, leave the track on a diagonal (oblique) and return
to it by a half turn to the left* exacted by a very pronounced action of the
left leg and left rein. This strongly marked lateral effect carries the horse's
haunches to the right; the horse while still gaining ground yields to the
effect of the left leg (and left rein) and thus describes a half turn. The same
movement is executed while marching on the left hand and the horse eventually
swings the haunches easily about the forehand, without halting, without
striking the fetlocks and without dancing. (Without either increase or decrease of
cadence. - The Board.)
* In the expressions
"demivoltes renverses" and ''demitours sur les epaules faits en
marchant" an apparent inconsistency is encountered. The "demi-tour
sur les dpaules" is the "about on the forehand" of our drill
regulations. If, however, instead of being held stationary, the forehand is
allowed to gain ground (en marchant ), we will have the movement contemplated
in the lesson but it will necessarily be on two tracks, the semicircle made by
the hind feet having a greater radius than that made by the fore feet. Now the
"volte" is nothing more than our individual "circle" and is
a one-track movement. For clearness then, it is evident that a word is needed
to accurately describe this "about made while marching," and the
Board has decided to use the expression "half turn."
We have specified half turns reversed, but abouts, full
turns, and later, serpentines can also be used.
About on the Forehand.
The second lesson may also be given by means of the abouts on the forehand; but
it would be wise not to insist upon this movement and to use it only when
absolutely necessary.
The great drawback to abouts on the forehand is the frequent
halting of a young horse and the holding him in place by the action of the legs.
This lesson used repeatedly at the beginning of training will eventually check
any movement straight to the front that was already obtained.
It must be remembered
that at this stage of his instruction the colt has learned little and would be
unable to execute a left half turn in the open. In the arena, however, he understands
the opening of the right rein that guides him off the track, to which he has
grown accustomed, into the the right oblique, and he understands the opening of
the reverse rein to guide him back. The prompt and forceful use of the left leg
then swings his haunches about and instead of being confused he moves out
willingly in the opposite direction because he is again on his familiar track
next to the wall. ( The Board)
Major Dntilh, although he explains in detail the system of
abouts on the forehand, himself points out the danger of using them, for,
following his explanation, he says:
"Caution riders that abouts
on the forehand have the disadvantage of rendering horses unresponsive to the
action of the legs. In order to counteract this tendency, which promptly leads
tip to resistance, it is urged that the horse be pushed straight ahead at a
trot after each one of these pivotings.”
In spite of these drawbacks, the abouts on the forehand can
be employed advantageously in certain cases. In fact, they should be used with
horses that are too hot-headed, with those that bulge on the hand and with
those that are slow to learn.
The rider guides the
horse during ‘Shoulder In’ - using
the inside leg and outside rein, the so-called ‘’versal’’ aids.
The outer rein lies against the neck and guides the shoulder
inwards.
The inside leg of the rider is on the girth, asks the
lateral bending of the horse and gives a little aid the moment the inside hind
leg steps forward to make it step under the weight.
The inside rein is away from the neck and asks the stelling.
The outside leg of the rider is behind the girth, maintains
the lateral bending and prevents the hindquarter to fall out.
The rider puts more weight on the inside seat bone, to take
pressure away from the stretched outer back muscles.
The inside seat bone points down to where the horse should
step with his inside hind leg.
The riders centre and point of weight is deep in the rider’s
pelvis, pointing straight forward like a compass giving direction to the
movement to prevent the horse from turning to the inside.
The rider keeps his shoulders parallel to the shoulders of
the horse, and his hips parallel to the hips of the horse.
Suppling of the
Haunches Continued. When the preceding lessons have produced mobility of
the croup by lateral effects, and the horse yields readily to the action of the
leg and rein on the same side while marching on an arc, it is time to exact the
same obedience while marching on a straight line. The movement called
"haunches in" which continues the suppling of the croup has the
further advantage of confirming obedience to the legs.
Haunches In. - Marching
on the right hand, indicate o]v position with the left rein and close, at the
same time, the left leg. If the horse yields and swings the croup inside of the
track by even one step, while still gaining ground to the front, straighten him
again at once with the right rein and leg; Repeat this swinging of the haunches
several times but in the first lessons, do not insist. Gradually lengthen the
time before straightening.
Haunches in, is a suppling exercise for the hind quarters;
its object is to make the spinal column pliable and to accustom the hind legs
to stepping across each other. It also makes the haunches quick to obey and
constitutes an excellent preparation for two-track work and for the gallop
lead.
Difference Between
Haunches In and Two-Track Work. The movement of swinging the haunches in
must not be confused with two-track work, which is a regular movement.
Two-Track work is taken up after the completion of suppling the forehand as
well as that of the haunches. In the ‘Two-Track’ movement the horse is placed
or held correctly in a position from head to croup, it is oblique to his path
rather than curved to it. ‘Haunches In’, on the contrary, is merely an exercise
with the object of making the haunches supple and easily controlled.
Dismounted Work.
Before beginning mounted work on the haunches, it is sometimes useful to pave
the way by dismounted work with the whip; such work may be advantageously
combined with longeing. Work with the whip is directed especially at the hind
quarters and should not be confused with the dismounted bending lessons which
we will take up later in curb-bridle work.
There are two principle movements:
To move the horse to the front with the whip: The horse
being on the track and on the left hand, seize the reins about six inches from
the bit with the left hand, pull them forward and at the same time strike light
taps with the whip behind the girth where the leg is usually applied.
If the horse moves forward, let him walk a few steps, make
much of him and then halt him. If he stands still, gradually increase the force
of the whip taps until he moves.
If the horse backs away, hold him tight with the hand on the
reins and continue the use of the whip behind the girth until he moves forward;
then caress him and halt him.
2. To swing the haunches: The rider
standing on the left of the horse seizes the reins with his left hand and
applies light taps with the whip behind the girth until the horse moves the
haunches from left to right.
The left hand prevents the horse from getting away to the
front and by opposing the forehand to the haunches, assists the action of the
whip in moving the hind quarters.
In this movement the forehand should move and the fore legs
should cross, but on an arc of very small radius.
Dismounted work should be considered as of only secondary
importance. It will be of great benefit with some horses and practically useless
with others. In any case, dismounted lessons should always be very brief.
Suppling the Forehand.
The
hind quarters having been drilled by the foregoing work, we must promptly train
the forehand in order that both ends of the horse shall be in harmony as
regards mobility and suppleness.
Shoulder In.
"Shoulder in" is the starting point in forehand suppling; this
exercise furnishes the means of bending the forehand and spinal column and of
training the fore legs to cross each other easily. La Gueriniere says: "This
lesson produces so many good results at once, that I consider it the first and
the last to be given to the horse".
"Shoulder in" is obtained in the following manner:
Marching on the right hand, open the right rein as in changing
direction to the right, and press the left rein upon the neck. Close the right
leg to push the mass from right to left and slip the left leg behind the girth
to restrict as much as possible the swinging of the haunches.
The support of the left rein is indispensable in order to
keep the proper balance of the shoulders, that is to prevent the weight of the
right shoulder from plunging heavily upon the left shoulder.
The horse's head must be firmly held between the two reins,
otherwise the exercise would become a lateral flexion of the neck and would do
more harm than good.
The bending of the horse's body should not be overstrained.
For example it is perfect if, on the right hand, the left front foot and the
right hind foot make tracks on a line obviously parallel to the wall of the
riding hall.
The difference between shoulder in and two track work is
analogous to that between haunches in and two track work. In the movement of
shoulder in, if the rider eases the hands slightly, the horse, being bent and
not oblique,will quit the track and start to make a circle. If, in
haunches out on two tracks, the rider eases the hands, the horse, being
traversed and not bent, quits the track and moves off at an oblique.
About on the
Haunches. The about on the haunches consists in causing the forehand to
describe a half circle around the haunches. It is a difficult movement and,
customary methods of instruction to the contrary notwithstanding, should not be
taken up until after the completion of the exercises of haunches in and
shoulder in.
The first part of the movement is easy enough; but the last
part is difficult. Take for instance the right about. Begin .the movement like
a change of direction to the right, holding the haunches firmly with the left
leg. In the remainder of the exercise the controlling aids are the left rein
and the left leg. The left rein has first a bearing effect that, assisted by
the right rein, swings the forehand on its path; thereafter, it has an effect
of diagonal traction, pulling the mass back upon the right hock and thus
holding the haunches stationary.
The about on the haunches is executed on the inside hind
leg, the outside hind leg gaining ground around it.
Lateral Effect and
Diagonal Effect. The movements that have been already executed with the
rein and the leg on the same side, suffice to show the difference between the
lateral (effect and the diagonal effect.
It is easy to see that the former is the means and that the
latter is the end in view. With young horses the right rein comes to the
assistance of the right leg: lateral effect. With trained horses, the rein
places or controls the forehand while the leg controls the haunches: diagonal
effect.
Two Track Work.
Two track work consists in making the forelegs cross each
other and the hind legs cross each other, gaining ground to the front or
without gaining ground to the front; the horse is set (placed) to the flank
toward which he is marching.
1. On the Track.
Haunches in. When both the forehand and the haunches have been sufficiently
suppled, the movement of haunches in should be changed into haunches in on two
tracks, that is to say, that as the horse gradually becomes more obedient to
the leg, the lateral effect should gradually make way for the diagonal effect.
In other words, when the horse yields readily to the left leg, for instance, it
is useless to continue the left rein in opposition and we accordingly attain
the full and regular movement in which the forehand is set in the direction of
march.
Haunches out. After the horse has mastered the preceding
movement, he should be taught haunches out on two tracks.* The principles are
the same; but this latter lesson is much to be preferred, because the horse executes
it with- out being guided by the wall or by routine; he merely obeys the reins
and legs.
In this movement the horse must not be allowed to hang back
or to get behind the bit. To keep him well into the reins, the two-track lesson
must frequently be terminated by moving out either on a half turn in reverse or
on an oblique to change hands.
Two track movements with the haunches in or out are very
fatiguing to the young horse and should not be pro longed beyond a few steps.
Undue persistence in these movements would make a horse refuse; he would strike
his fetlocks while stepping across and would sooner or later resist in order to
escape the pain caused by these repeated blows.
2. On the Diagonal of
the Arena-Advantage of this Exercise. Movements of the haunches should be
repeated on the diagonal of the hall (while changing hands) and in half turns.
Two track work on the diagonal of the arena makes a perfect lesson. Any
tendency to slacken the gait is avoided, and the horse takes to this exercise
more willingly than to that on the track because it is easier and there is less
chance of striking the fetlocks in cross stepping.
In two-track work, do not persist in a movement poorly begun or poorly executed. If the horse
frets, dances or backs, put him on a straight line again, quiet him and
then return to the two-track lesson.
3. On a Circle.
Two-track work on a circle is executed on the same principles. The following
remarks are pertinent:
(a) Haunches out on two-tracks on a circle puts the horse
into his bridle and upon his forehand. He supports himself to a great extent on
the fore legs and lightens the hind quarters which, having a longer route to
travel, derive more benefit.
This movement should be used for horses that hang back, or
that have too much weight on the hind quarters.
(b) Haunches in, on two tracks on a circle produces effects
diametrically opposite. It is a special exercise for suppling the forehand and
should be used for horses that have too much weight on the shoulders.
Two Track Work at a
Slow Trot. All two-track exercises should be repeated at a slow trot. Such
work, with the haunches set diagonally develops rapid progress in young horses.
Is it Advantageous to Prolong the First
Part of Training?
There is a distinct advantage in prolonging the first part
of the training that is done on the snaffle bit. So long as the young horse is
unsteady and wobbly, so long as there is danger of encountering resistance, it
would be better to leave him on the snaffle. With this bit struggles are less
frequent, those that are unavoidable are less harmful and. on the days of bad
humor on the part of horse or rider, there is less chance of ruining the work
accomplished in preceding lessons.
Moreover, the young horse nearly always needs to have his
neck raised, strengthened and set. If he has no breeding and the curb bit is
used too soon, he has a tendency to bring the muzzle down against the chest or
to bear heavily on the hand. If, on the contrary, he has class and energy, and
is put on the curb bit before he thoroughly understands the leg aids, he will
struggle against the hand, use his strength in fighting the bit and
subsequently much time will be required to quiet him and smooth out his gaits.
Bending Lessons on
the Snaffle. When and How to be Exacted. It is better to take up bending
lessons on the snaffle too late rather than too soon. As long as the horse is
not well up in the reins, there is no opportunity to begin. When he bears
properly on the bit, and not before, he should be taught to yield the jaw and
to place the head to the right or left.
In preliminary bending lessons, to draw the head to the
right, the rider pulls gently and slowly upon the right rein, and holds the
left rein steady to regulate the amount of displacement of the head as well as
to prevent, as far as possible, any bending of the neck; the head alone should
be turned to the right. The movement will be well executed if the head, held
high rather than low, remains vertical; if the jaw is flexible, and if the
displacement of the head to the right or left does not pass outside of the
vertical planes parallel to the axis of the horse and passing through the
points of the shoulders.
In these bending lessons which are invariably practiced
while the animal is moving, the legs must be used to keep up a steady gait and
to prevent slowing up.
Easing the Hand on
the Snaffle. Bending lessons should always be followed by easing the hand,
which is a rest for the horse after a somewhat fatiguing exercise, and a relief
to the hind quarters; this exercise is also a means of extending and lowering
the head of the horse and of accustoming him to keep in touch with his bit.
When the easing of the hand is well done, the horse after
yielding the jaw, should extend his neck little by little and answer to the
bending lesson even after his head is down. These bendings at the end of the
reins give most excellent results.
The easing of the hand should be most carefully distinguished
from the movement when the horse bores savagely against the hand. This habit of
boring or diving is easily acquired if the rider releases his hand suddenly
instead of keeping a constant tension on the reins and gradually following the
horse's head.
When and How the Gallop is
Exacted in the First Part of Horse Training?
Almost invariably the gallop lesson should be begun early.
There is then available an additional means of suppling the horse, of
strengthening him, extending him and pushing him straight ahead. But a fixed
rule can not be laid down with horses and especially in this matter; the time
to take up first work at a gallop depends upon the conformation of the horse,
his condition, his leg development and the kind of ground available. It would
be stupidity to gallop frequently on a colt that drags his legs and is
disunited at a trot and that has difficulty in holding up the part essential to
training. On the other hand, it is proper to gallop repeatedly on a vigorous
horse that has been worked before purchase, on the horse with good strong legs
and particularly after he has been thoroughly confirmed in the correct trot.
This is a matter of common sense and experience; a horseman
will promptly decide at what moment he can profitably begin gallop work with
the horse he is riding or with the squad he is instructing.
The Gallop by Increase of Gait. Utility of Work on a Circle.
Passing from the walk to the gallop may be considered as a
test of advanced training; it will therefore be entirely out of place at this
stage and we must take up the gallop only by increasing the gait from the trot.
Moreover, it is essential that the horse shall work equally well on both sides
and since, on the circle, the horse is set to lead on the inside leg, we have
an opportunity to insure the gallop lead on either foot.
Increasing the gait from a trot on a circle furnishes
therefore the means of fulfilling the two essential conditions just cited.
The aids to be used are both legs and the outside rein. The
two legs, by steadily forcing an increased gait push the horse into the gallop.
A slight tension on the outside rein prevents the horse from swinging the
haunches out and consequently precludes a false lead or a disunited gallop.
The circle is the best means to give the gallop lesson when
the squad to be drilled is rather large in numbers.
Besides the advantages already enumerated, troopers are
enabled to work without interfering with each other, in spite of the difference
in speed which manifests itself in the gallop of young horses. But if the number
of troopers working in the hall is limited, it is possible to secure the lead
on the desired foot by increasing the gait from the trot at the corner or on
the completion of a flank movement, or at the end of a movement to change
hands.
The gallop must be attained at the moment the horse begins
the change of direction; for if he does not relinquish the trot until the
change of direction is completed, his haunches can easily swing out and the
favorable opportunity is lost.
Backing. Method of Execution.
The first lesson in backing may be given dismounted and in
the following manner:
Being on the left side, with the reins in the left hand and
the whip in the right, stimulate the hind quarters by a touch with the whip and
take advantage of this mobility to exact one or two steps backward.
The horse should be made to move to the front again
immediately by leading him forward with the left hand, and, if necessary, by
touching him lightly with the whip.
To give this same lesson mounted, begin by closing the legs
as in moving to the front and then move the horse backward by leaning back
slightly and by pulling on the reins with gradually increasing force.
Here we see a striking example of the principle of starting
everything with the movement to the front. The action of the legs before the action
of the hands is a fundamental idea to be inculcated in the mind of every
trooper. In backing, the legs are used first to produce the movement to the
front and the hand is used next to transform the forward impulse into a
backward movement.
After a few steps backward, start the horse forward again,
halt him and caress him.
If a horse refuses to obey, the instructor takes him by the
reins and causes him to execute the movement as in dismounted work.
If the horse braces himself on his hind legs at the moment
that the hand acts to make him move backward, the instructor moves him forward
a step or two or makes him swing his haunches slightly and takes advantage of
this mobility to force him backward.
This movement is well executed when the horse moves backward
step by step and voluntarily moves to the front again as soon as the trooper
releases the hand.
If, instead of backing slowly and step by step, the horse
hurries the movement and is about to come down upon the haunches, the trooper
promptly stops all action of the hand and corrects the horse by attacking him
vigorously with the legs or with the spurs to push him forward again.
This Exercise to be
Insisted Upon in What Cases?
Backing is a suppling exercise for the back as well as the
haunches, and it is an indispensable movement for the saddle horse. Yet it
should not be abused, particularly in the early stages of training, as
resistance will eventually be developed. Moreover, it is not suitable for all
horses indiscriminately but should be used especially for those that have
difficulty in bringing the hind legs under or that have too much weight on the
forehand.
Individual Work. (At
will.) Nearly all instructors have the bad habit of grouping young horses
too much. The greater part of a drill is devoted to work with fixed distances,
which gives the horses the idea of sticking in ranks. We have already said that
it is better to work without regard to distances. And from the very beginning
it is also essential to execute all movements in both directions and at will.
If, in addition, we give a few outdoor rides in pairs, the young horses will
become quiet free movers and the remainder of the training exercises will be
that much easier.
Condition of the
Horse at the End of the Work in the Snaffle Bridle.
At the end of instruction in the snaffle bridle, the horse
should be willing on the road and tranquil in the arena. He executes correctly
the movement of haunches in, shoulder in and two track work at a walk and at a
slow trot. He takes up the gallop easily on either foot by increasing the gait
from the trot. He has found his balance while moving freely to the front, a
double condition which is satisfactorily fulfilled if he keeps the reins taut
without ever bearing on the hand. His gaits are clean; he can lengthen the walk
without jigging and the trot without becoming disunited; his wind has been
developed and he can keep up a lengthened gallop for several minutes.
When this entire program has been carried out and especially
when the horse begins to pull on the hand, it is time to take up the double
bridle.
Instruction in the Double Bridle.
The instructor's first care must be as to the manner in
which the horses are bitted. A mild curb bit should be selected, that is to
say, a bit with large cannons, a low port (only slightly restricting the freedom
of the tongue) and short branches. The bit should be placed in the mouth high
rather than low and the curb-chain should be left long so as to facilitate at
first a swinging motion of the bit. When the horses bear freely on the curb bit
and when they submit to this new mouthpiece just as they formerly received the
effects of the snaffle, the curb bit may be lowered to its proper place and the
chain tightened to customary tension.
If the horse has a sensitive mouth, it is well to replace,
for a time, the ordinary curb by a broken curb. The latter gives a mouthpiece
more severe than the snaffle but milder than the curb and the horse also
becomes accustomed to the chain. The broken curb should be kept on for a
certain length of time and may be resumed later if, during the course of
training, it is noticed that the horse has a tendency to get behind the bit.
Successive Steps to
Accustom the Young Horse to the Curb Bit.
In the first lessons in the double bridle, work should be
begun on the snaffle bit. When the horse has settled down and is well in hand
he can be ridden on the curb. It is to be remarked, and the remark is
important, that bending lessons are never to be given in the early stages of
work on the curb. For these lessons, you must wait until the horse fearlessly
accepts contact with the bit and tightens the curb reins as he formerly did the
snaffle reins. If this method of procedure sometimes has the drawback of producing
mouths with little feeling, we guarantee that it is less difficult to supple a
part that presents stiffness than to make a part firm where all resistance is
lacking.
To attain this bearing on the bit the following schedule
should be followed:
Ride the horse with the reins in both hands, placing the
snaffle rein outside, under the little linger.
2. At first, during work at a walk and later during work at
a trot, ride the horse with the curb rein alone; the rein may be held in one
hand or in both hands.
3. Finally adopt the ordinary method of holding the reins.
With each of these different methods of holding the reins,
the horse must be made to repeat simple movements with which he is already
familiar.
Moreover, the horse should be frequently put hack on the
snaffle alone and be ridden at extended gaits in order to restore the confidence
that he may have lost in beginning lessons on the curb.
During this preparatory period the legs play an important
role. It is essential that the curb bit should produce upon the horse no slowing
or backing effect and that the forward movement produced by the legs should
overcome any tendency in the other direction which might he the result of the
first use of this bit.
Bending Lessons.
As previously stated, bending lesson^ should not be begun until the horse has
become thoroughly accustomed to his new mouthpiece and fearlessly accept
contact of both bit and chain.
Before setting forth a schedule of bendings, it will he
advisable to cite the following principles relating thereto:
Never slacken the gait during bending lessons. The hand does
not pull the horse back; the legs push him forward until he encounters the bit
when a bending results.
.2. Bendings with the snaffle bit should not be made except
with one rein alone. Both snaffle reins are used in order to raise the head and
to support the horse and therefore they should never be combined to exact
bending.
3. It is just the reverse with the curb bit, the reins of
which are rarely separate in their action. The main object in view is a light
feel on both reins.
4. Do not bend the neck (laterally). In setting the head the
upper part of the neck is involved and that is generally enough.
5. Frequently follow up the bendings by easing the hand and
as soon as the horse has extended his neck to the full extent, exact another
bending with the head down.
Bending lessons with
the double bridle should be taken up according to the following schedule:
1. With the snaffle hit: Flexing the jaw by the use of one
rein.
Setting the head to the right and to the left (as in a
change of direction).
2. With both snaffle and curb bits: Lateral flexion by the
use of both right reins. Lateral flexion by the use of both left reins. Setting
the head by the use of both right reins. Setting the head by the use of both
left reins.
3. With the curb bit: Flexing the jaw by use of one curb
rein. Flexing the jaw by the use of both curb reins. (Direct flexion).
The most important bendings are:
1. Setting the head by use of one snaffle rein.
2.Direct flexion (of the jaw) by use of both curb reins.
Dismounted Bending
Lessons. Dismounted bending lessons should be the exception. If obliged to
resort to them, they should be limited to the two following:
1. Flexing the jaw, executed by taking one or both snaffle
reins in the hand in front and one or both curb reins in the hand in rear.
Raising the head by the use of the snaffle. The trooper
stands in front of the horse, facing him, and takes in each hand one of the
snaffle reins, grasping' it near the ring; the wrists are gradually raised
until the horse's head and neck reach the desired elevation. The horse must
stand still and must not back; if he starts to move to the rear, the whip is
used to move him to the front again.
DEFINITIONS.
In Hand- The
horse is in hand after he has completed and fully understands the bending
lessons and when he yields willingly to the effects of the bit.
Lightness -
Lightness has been defined in answer to Question VI.
It is the correct balance of the horse that obeys promptly
and easily all impulses given him by his rider.
The Set (Le Placer)
- is the operation that places the center of gravity in the position required
for the execution of any desired movement.
The Gather (Le Ramener) - To gather is nothing more or less
than to set the forehand. When the horse carries his head and neck well up, the
face approaching the vertical and the jaw flexible he is said to be in the
position of the- gather (or is gathered).
The Assemble (Le
Rassembler) - The assemble consists of the gather perfected by bringing the
hind legs under. The set of the forehand is combined with the set of the hind
quarters.*
The horse can be gathered at a halt although he should be
taught the correct carriage of the head and neck at a walk, in which case there
will be no chance of backing.
On the other hand, the assemble, the highest form of
collection, can be obtained only when the horse is in motion; the horse is
assembled in the half halt to be sure, but this position can be held only for a
moment before the horse moves again.
For instance, in the
half halt the horse is assembled; he is also in hand, ready for any indication
of the bit and he is set for movement in any direction. ( The Board).
Easing the Hand on the Curb Bit.
We have previously discussed the easing of the hand on the
snaffle bit. The suppling exercise is the same when made on the curb bit but in
this case it should be followed by raising the head again.
The horse having yielded the jaw, loosen the fingers and
continue the action of the legs in order to push the horse gently in pursuit of
his bit. From the very beginning of training, he has grown accustomed to lean
lightly on the bit and he therefore extends his neck and lowers his head to recover
this customary support.
The extension of the neck will be sufficient and will be
well executed whenever the horse, without increasing or decreasing the gait,
extends his nose downward and forward to the level of the knees and keeps his
jaw flexible.
The raising of the head is effected by carrying the hands
forward and pulling upward on the reins, the legs still preventing any slowing
up.
These suppling exercises should be repeated at a walk, trot
and gallop and on the three lines.
Easing the hand is an exercise suitable for horses too high
in front, with a high neck, that is either upside down or ewe-necked, and for
those with weak hind quarters, predisposed to injuries. It should be used very
sparingly with horses that are high behind, especially if the withers are low
and sunken, the shoulders straight, the neck thin and the head large.
What should be
Understood by Give and Take. Action of the Fingers on the Reins. As the
horse should always be in close touch with the hand of the rider, the expression
give and take has a certain significance which should be clearly stated.
Take does not consist in drawing the hand back and give does
not mean carrying the hand forward and releasing the reins.
Assuming the permanent contact which should exist between
the horse's mouth and the rider's hand, take means to fix the wrist and tighten
the fingers at the moment of halting or of half halting; give means to relax
the wrist and loosen the fingers without losing touch with the horse's mouth;
if the horse has been well trained touch will not be lost because the horse will
himself feel for his rider's hand. Any slowing of gait should therefore be the
result of the action of the fingers on the reins. If this action is insufficient
it must be reinforced by carrying the upper part of the body backward; but any
movement of the elbows should be avoided as this is the unfailing symptom of
the unskilled horseman.
Necessity of
Frequently Returning to the Lesson of Going Straight Ahead.
All these bending lessons made on the curb bit, these halts
and half halts, only too often result in slowing the horse and in diminishing
any desire to go ahead that he may have acquired.
(This is
commonly called "steam" and is manifested by a proper voluntary
tightening of the reins. The horse with "no steam" is voluntarily
behind the hit. - The Board).
It is therefore necessary to resume frequently the first
lesson of the legs, the lesson of moving straight ahead. The horse should be
attacked vigorously with the calves, being careful to fully loosen the fingers
so that he shall have complete liberty to escape to the front.
Lesson With the
Spurs. With horses that hold back, that are too cold (phlegmatic), or that
do not respond to the legs, the spurs should be used. The lesson with the spurs
does not occur at any fixed period but is given when the occasion presents
itself. If the horse is behind the legs, put him at a trot in order to have him
securely in motion (not liable to stop) and then let him feel the spurs by vigorous
and repeated action until he leaps to the front.
Here it is particularly important to pay attention to the
hands; you must not contradict with the hands what you demand with the legs,
but must let the reins slip as much as is necessary to enable the horse to extend
himself freely.
With certain horses it is sometimes prudent to grasp the
pommel of the saddle when giving the spur lesson. The rider is then more
certain of not contradicting himself and the lesson thus administered is sure
to be profitable in the training of the animal.
Work at the Trot. Rising to
the Trot.
The rider should always rise to the trot unless the slowness
of the gait renders it impossible or at any rate difficult.
To rise to the trot, the rider inclines the upper part of
the body forward and takes a firm grip with the knees in order to avoid
throwing his whole weight into the stirrups and in order to have the lower legs
perfectly free. He then allows himself to be raised by the thrust of one
diagonal pair of legs, the right for example (i.e. right hind and left fore),
he avoids the thrust produced by the planting of the left diagonal pair and
drops back into the saddle just as tin right pair is replanted, which raises
him again.
The rider thus avoids every other thrust, tires himself
less, and tires his horse less.
Necessity of
Frequently Alternating the Diagonal Pair from Which the Rise Is Made. But
unless he is careful, he gradually acquires the habit of always rising from the
same pair, or as it is commonly expressed, of trotting on the same shoulder,
and this habit has serious drawbacks.
1. The pair from which the rider rises becomes much more
fatigued than the other because it raises and thrust;- forward the weight of
both horse and rider; whereas the other pair, which acts while the rider is in
the air. has only the weight of the horse to thrust forward.
2. If the rider is rising from the right diagonal pair. the
left diagonal pair acts while he is in the air and thrusts the weight of the
horse further in its own direction than is possible for the right diagonal pair
on account of its additional burden. From this there results, after a certain
length of time, a disagreeable irregularity in the gait since one shoulder
gains more ground than the other.
The results explained in the second remark above, may be
practically utilized. If the rider discovers that his horse trots unevenly and
advances one shoulder more than the other, he should rise on the shoulder that
gains less ground.
These results may also be utilized to correct the fault of a
horse always leading with the same foot at a gallop. Suppose for instance, a
horse that always gallops on the right foot: to lead with the right foot the
horse sets the right shoulder in advance of the left. If therefore the rider persists,
for a certain length of time, in rising from the left diagonal pair, the left
shoulder, as has been explained above, will be pushed further forward than the
right and the horse will be in a position at a trot that will induce him to
lead with the left foot at a gallop.
From the preceding explanations it is evident that the rider
should know how to trot his horse on either shoulder and to change shoulders
without changing gait if he wishes to develop the animal's efficiency equally
and have him always perfectly straight.
The only exception is when the legs of one diagonal pair
have been injured and they can be saved by rising from the other.
Lengthening and
Shortening the Gait at a Walk and Trot.
Lengthening and shortening of gaits must be executed gradually
and by the steady use of the aids. The lowering of the head and the extending
of the neck assist in producing a lengthened gait. The raising of the head and
curving of the crest favor a shortening of the gait.
In all changes of gait the rider must accommodate his seat
to the movements of the horse. The lengthening of the trot should be moderate
and of short duration. By demanding more than a horse is equal to, an irregular
gait will soon be developed and this will be difficult to correct later.
Work at the Slow Trot.
- In one of the sections we mentioned the utility of the trot and explained the
advantages in training resulting from the use of this gait. We can only repeat
here what we have said before the slow trot especially gives excellent results in
the last stages of training. Suppling exercises for the haunches, shoulders and
jaw, when executed at this gait produce rapid progress in the horse; they
increase his strength and suppleness by forcing him to acquire and preserve his
balance.
Small Circles.
Small circles lower the horse's croup; the inside hock is necessarily brought
under and the outside shoulder is developed because it has a greater distance
to travel. Moreover, this work on a restricted circle enables the rider to set
a horse that pulls too hard on the hand.
Small circles should be rarely used with horses that hang
back for it is to be noted that on the circle they an especially prone to get
behind the bit. Nor should turns be used too much with young horses with
blemished or worn out hocks. As for the aids to be used, it depends upon
whether the horse has a tendency to let the haunches swing out or the reverse -
to let them drag inside. In the first case the inside rein and the outside leg
should predominate; in the second case the important aids will be the inside
rein and leg.
Serpentines.
Serpentines produce about the same results as small circles but in addition
they accustom the horse to pass from one set (position) to the other, easily
and while advancing.
Two Track Work.
Two track work at a slow trot on the diagonal of the arena is another method of
suppling the hind quarters and bringing them under; it is an excellent preliminary
to the gallop lead.
Halts, Half-Halts and
Backing. When the horse moves freely and begins to be balanced and regular
in both gaits, the walk and trot, we must take up the elements of the assemble,
which is the gather perfected by bringing the hind legs under.
We begin by numerous halts, the action of the legs always
preceding the action of the hand, and by this means alone the hind legs are
gradually brought towards the center. If at the moment of halting the horse is
contracted and endeavors to bore on the hand, the rider must keep up his action
and exact a step or two backward in order to overcome all resistance. He must
then promptly move the horse to the front again to avoid sitting down on the
haunches.
Half-halts are made according to the same principles but the
opposition of the hand is less marked than in halts. If the horse proves to be
obedient, loosen the fingers and extend him; if, on the contrary, he resists
the half-halt, keep up the action of the aids to the halt or even to backing.
Progressive Method of Perfecting the Gallop Lead
on Either Foot.
Taking up the Gallop by increasing the gait from the Trot.
It has been explained how. in early stages of training, the
gallop should be exacted by increasing the gait from the trot. This early
lesson, repeated every day, will have accustomed the horse to some extent to
the gallop and he will take up the gait readily to the right and to the left,
on the circle or at the corner, without the necessity of prolonged pushing from
the trot.
2. Taking the Gallop
from the Slow Trot by Lateral Effect. We now reach the second step. This
new lesson should still be assisted by a somewhat restricted circular movement
and the rider will exact a gallop only at the end of a circle or at the corner.
The difficulty of execution will then be slightly increased
by requiring the same leads on a circle of greater radius or at the end of a
diagonal of a half turn or of the diagonal of the change of hands.
Taking the Gallop
from the Slow Trot by Lateral Effect. The series of leads made by lateral effect
on small circles, circles and at the end of oblique lines will again be exacted
by diagonal effect and we thus gradually reach the gallop lead on a straight
line, being careful to always divide the movement into two parts: first the set
and then the impulse that produces the gallop. Thus, for the gallop lead with
the right foot:
a. Collect the horse to the right and pull diagonally on the
right rein in order to restrain the left shoulder and to free the right
shoulder; carry the body to the rear, throwing more weight on the left buttock:
close the left leg to make the haunches yield to the right and to bring the
right hind leg in advance.
b. The horse having been set in this manner, close the right
leg in order to add its effect to that of the left leg and to thus obtain, by
the action of both legs, the forward impulse necessary to bring about the
gallop.
Taking the Gallop
from the Walk. A horse that takes the gallop readily from the slow trot
will also take this gait without difficulty from the walk. The method of
procedure is the same; that is, first set the horse and then push him into the
gallop.
With horses that hesitate or fret, this last lesson should
be subdivided by passing through the trot; that is to say, the horse will be
set for the gallop while at a walk, from this set he will be urged into the
trot and from the trot into the gallop. Little by little this intermediate trot
will diminish in duration until the horse takes the gallop immediately from the
walk.
In this progressive method of obtaining the gallop lead on
either foot, we began by increasing the gait from the trot and finished by
taking the gallop from the walk because we are convinced that taking the gallop
is easier in proportion to the speed of advancing. In our opinion, taking the
gallop from the walk is the most difficult exercise and if insisted upon too
early will result in horses that back or stand and resist. Our method appears,
perhaps, rather long, but it has the advantage of producing horses that act
smoothly, that take the gallop without fretting and without losing touch with
the rider's hand.
Where Should the Training of the
Troop Horse Stop?
The training of the troop horse should stop after the gallop
lead has been included. It is useless, or rather impossible to proceed further
with the material available. A horse for the ranks, that goes straight and moves
free at all gaits, that is easily handled in any direction and that takes the
gallop lead readily on either foot, is in condition to satisfy all demands
imposed in the service. But this elementary education is not sufficient to meet
the requirements of an officer, who should always have a perfectly trained
horse. It is therefore important to point out, what movements will perfect and
complete the animal's schooling.
The False Gallop.
Galloping false is used as a means of lowering the croup, of balancing the horse
and holding him in his gallop. There are no special instructions about leading
with the outside foot; the only difficulty is to pass the corners without the
horse becoming disunited. To avoid this, the haunches must be strongly
supported by the inside leg and the horse must be held set by the outside rein
(supporting rein) in order to free the shoulder on that side and keep it in the
lead. In making a change of direction when galloping false, the hands should be
slightly lowered (eased), so that the movements of the hind quarters will not
be hampered and checked.
(It is also most important to forcibly ‘keep up' the gait. If allowed
to slow up, the horse is almost certain to escape from the aids and change the
lead .- The Board.)
Alternating the Gallop
at Short Intervals. The gallop leads comprise all the essential principles
of training: setting the head, the neck, the shoulders, and the haunches,
bringing the hind legs under and moving to the front. This very complexity
shows their importance. It will therefore be readily understood that gallop
leads, alternated at short intervals, will rapidly perfect the young horse's
training and, moreover, that this is the best method of paving the way for the
lesson of change of lead.
Change of Lead.
Change of lead is nothing more than exacting the gallop lead when the horse is
at the gallop. It is the most difficult of leads and must not be attempted until
the horse is thoroughly confirmed in the gallop lead from the trot and walk. If
the lesson of change of lead is given too soon or if the rider is too exacting
at first, the horse will slow up and become uncertain in gait. He will learn
the trick of holding back and especially of galloping disunited; hence, all the
benefit of preceding lessons will be lost.
To bring the horse up to the change of lead, gradually
decrease the intervals between the alternate leads exacted from the slow trot.
The set of the horse must be changed before he returns to the trot. Thus, for
instance, if the horse is galloping right, set him with the left diagonal
effect (right leg and left supporting rein). The change of set causes the horse
to balance himself and brings him down to the trot (where he feels steadier)
but, if the lower aids continue to force the gait the horse will take the
gallop with the left lead.
This is the analysis of the change of lead. Little by little
the length of time of the intermediate trot is diminished until the change of
lead in the air is obtained.
The lesson of change of lead can be given on the track or
the arena or on a circle. At first it is advantageous to lead off with the
outside foot and then attempt the change of lead to the inside foot. This plan
is especially applicable to work on a circle.
In all this work, the thing to be avoided is a desire to to
progress too rapidly. If the horse resists, you must not be bull-headed; you
must begin again and take up the analytical parts of the movement, going back
to the simple gallop leads. By insisting too strongly you teach the horse to
resist the reins and legs and destroy what lightness he may have acquired.
Moreover, the horse's resistance proves that you are attempting the change of
lead too soon and that he is not yet up to it.
Continuation of
Training. Work at the Slow Trot Gallop
Work at the slow trot on the three lines will develop the
strength and suppleness of tin horse; alternating gallop leads with short
intervals, exacted from the trot, the walk, the halt and when backing, will
finally perfect his balance and obedience; he will then be well trained.
But this work must not be abused. Arena work should be of
short duration. The horse should be often taken out, galloped over good ground
and jumped over obstacles. It must not be forgotten that the desirable qualities
in an officer's mount are that he shall be perfectly willing, go perfectly
straight, and remain perfectly calm, all of which qualities would disappear if
he were kept constantly shut up in an arena, working at slow and shortened
gaits.
Jumping on the
Longe
Jumping on the Longe.
is a perfect lesson to train a horse for obstacles. Drilled by this method, the
horse is cool and clever and forms the habit of observing the obstacle. It is
the best system for service mounts and hunters.
This lesson may be given in the arena or in the open and in
the following manner:
High Jumps. Place a bar on the ground. Holding the longe in
one hand and the snaffle reins in the other, lead the horse and step over the bar
with him several times in succession in both directions. When the horse no
longer
shows hesitation, move away from him a little. put him in a
circle and make him cross the bar on the longe. Later the bar is gradually
raised.
To give the lesson properly, it is necessary:
1. To let the horse assume, at a short distance from the
bar, whatever gait suits him, and immediately after he jumps to make him resume
the original gait of the circle.
2. To advance a step or two toward the obstacle and to open
the fingers, so that the longe may slip through the hand while the horse is
approaching his jump and will not be too taut when he leaps; he must never be hampered
but must have complete liberty.
3. To take up the horse on the longe again gently return him
to the circle and to the original gait.
It is a good plan to practice the horse in jumping on the
longe at a walk before trying him at the trot and gallop. At the walk the horse
can best estimate the jump and the amount of effort necessary to clear it; at
the walk he also learns how best to assist himself with his head and neck.
Jumping at the other gaits then becomes less difficult.
Broad Jumps. The
method of procedure and the precautions to be taken are the same as for high
jumps, begin with very easy ditches and progress to broader and more difficult
ones. The first time do not prevent the horse from stopping to examine the
ditch. He will feel the ground, bring up his hind legs little by little, and
after much hesitation will finally clear the ditch. This feeling for firm
ground is allowed on the first trials only, and as soon as the first
apprehension has disappeared, any halting in front of the obstacle must be
energetically corrected. Young horses are much more disposed to hesitate at
breadth than height.
Jumping Mounted.
After horses have been trained in jumping on the longe, they are made to jump
mounted.
At first they must be in the snaffle bridle. Always begin
with insignificant obstacles. In the arena, place the bar on the ground and afterwards
raise it gradually according to the confidence shown by men and horses. Out of
doors, start with very easy jumps and work up gradually to the class of
obstacles that every service mount should clear.
To Accustom Young
Horses to the Saber. For the first few days the saber should be worn on the
belt and not slung to the saddle. In this manner the saber may more easily be
held away from the horse, in case he becomes too excited, and any dangerous
struggles resulting from prolonged contact may be avoided. With very nervous
horses, the saber, instead of being attached to the belt, may be held in the
hand and the lesson can then be easily continued or stopped at will.
The first lesson should be given in the middle of the period
of work when the horse's nervousness has already been worn off.
The saber is next slung to the saddle; as soon as the horse
has become accustomed to it, the different movements of the saber exercise
should be executed until absolute indifference is obtained.
To Accustom Horses to
Fire-Arms and Noises. Several methods are used. One of the best is to place
the mounted troopers on a large circle; dismounted men are placed in the
center, some with revolvers, flags and trumpets, others with boxes or sieves of
oats. At a given signal the noises cease and the horses are turned to the
center of the circle where the oats are offered to them.
This same exercise is repeated on circles of smaller radius
and when the horses show no further anxiety, they are turned into the center
and fed oats while the noises continue.
Another plan is to place in line the dismounted men with the
revolvers, flags and trumpets and have them nearby around the drill ground. The
young horses, also in line, follow them about, at first at a distance,
gradually approaching and finally eating their oats in the ranks.
However it is not necessary to enter into minute descriptions
of details. It will suffice if the following caution is observed:
Avoid a struggle by starting at a distance from the dismounted
men and do not insist brutally on the occasion of a horse's first fright.
Swimming Exercises.
Swimming exercises are difficult to carry out and the results obtained are not
always commensurate with the danger to which the men are exposed.
If, however, the horses must be made to swim, the following
schedule should be followed:
1. Make the horse swim, holding him at the end of a longe
attached to the halter. In this way you will be more certain to avoid any jerks
that would cause him to make false movements. This remark is very important for
if a horse in the water is brought up short he will splash in his struggles and
may easily lose his head completely.
2. After the horses exhibit a certain amount of confidence,
they should be mounted, bareback and in snaffle bridle, by men who are
excellent swimmers and then taken across a rather narrow stream. In order to
have this exercise carried out under favorable conditions, the banks of the
stream should have a gentle slope so that the horse can enter the water
gradually, get out without difficulty and not be forced to swim more than a few
yards.
3. The same exercise is repeated once or twice only, with
the horses saddled and bridled.
VARIOUS FAULTS OF SADDLE HORSES.
The Hot Headed Horse.
Ride him alone, calm him by the voice and by patting and pull as little as
possible on the reins. Bring down the head and neck by protracted periods of
trotting. Then execute in the arena serpentine and figures of eights to
accustom the horse to submitting to the pressure of the legs and to obey the
aids readily.
The Jigging Horse.
Begin by giving the leg lesson until the horse moves freely to the front. When
he is well up on the bit, make him half lower the head, keeping the reins taut
but following the balancing of the head and neck. Whenever the horse resumes
the trot, push him sharply with the legs and then, carrying the body back,
exact a half halt to bring him down to the walk.
The Horse that
Gallops When He Should Trot. It is almost always because he holds back or
because the hind quarters are overloaded that a horse, even a hot headed one,
makes trouble at the trot. In either case, make him extend his neck and every
time he rises to the gallop push him with the legs, but do not pull on the
reins. Then carry the body back, pulling gently on the reins and, by means of
the legs, holding the horse's haunches perfectly straight. Loosen the fingers
at the first strides of the trot and keep the body erect with the legs firmly
set.
The Puller. Being
at a walk, execute half halts with lateral effects; when the horse has yielded.
Let him straighten himself again and resume the original gait. Repeat this same
lesson, first at a slow trot and then at the regulation trot. In this way the
puller's rigidity is broken up, he is forced to bend and to bring his hind legs
under.
Work at a slow trot on small circles, serpentines and
diagonals, halts and half halts, make up an excellent schedule of exercises for
the horse with too much weight on his shoulders and that pulls too much on the
hand.
The Star Gazer. (The
horse that pokes his nose out. A horse with this fault has a rigid jaw and
holds his head high, approaching the horizontal. A bad neck conformation induces
this fault but it generally results from bad riding, the horse being afraid of
the hands.
To correct this fault, set the hand, that is to say hold it
stationary above the pommel of the saddle, the reins remaining taut; close the
legs to push the horse up to the bit and tighten the fingers on the reins until
the horse lowers his head slightly; loosen the fingers immediately and slacken
the reins. Begin again and continue the lesson until the horse yields at the
slightest pressure of the fingers and understands thoroughly that the hand is
severe when he pokes out his nose but relaxes completely as soon as he sets his
head properly.
The Horse that Fights
the Bit (throws his head). This fault is found only in the horse that holds
back because, in order to make the movement of the head, he must diminish the
gait slightly.
To correct the fault, it is not wise to use the hand only,
as is frequently done, because any effect of the hands tends to a further
decrease of gait. The most rational and at the same time the most certain
method is as follows:
Make the horse move freely and push him energetically, with
the legs at the very moment that you feel that he is about to throw his head;
at the same time loosen the fingers to allow the neck to be extended and the
head lowered. If this plan is not sufficient, hold one rein taut and set the
hand that holds it. This method is effective because the head movements can be
made only side-wise and become very painful.
The Horse that Lowers
His Head Against His Chest. It is hard work to correct this fault and much
more difficult to raise the head than to lower it. To raise the head, begin by
extending the neck in order to open the angle it makes with the head. When the
neck is well extended use the snaffle reins to gradually raise the head, watching
carefully, that the horse keeps his muzzle to the front. The upward pull of the
snaffle reins must he felt at the corners of the lips; the legs must act
vigorously to prevent any slowing of the gait. Exact little at first and ease
the hand as soon as the horse raises his head slightly and yields his jaw. Give
this lesson several times each ride and at all traits until that« horse holds
his head at a proper height whenever the snaffle reins are tightened and the
legs closed.
Dismounted bending lessons also give good results. The
trooper stands facing the horse, and taking one snaffle rein in each hand
steadily raises his hands until the horse lifts the head without backing.
The Horse that Rears.
This fault begins with halting and squatting. Hence the first thing to do. is
to prevent this backward movement by a counter attack, that is to say, an
attack that will produce a movement to the front and that will throw weight on
the forehand.
If the horse resists the forward movement, turn him on the
spot so as to disorganize the forces necessary in rearing. When the haunches
move laterally, no part of the horse car be contracted and he is therefore
prevented from throwing' the weight on his hind quarters.
The Kicker. If a
horse has the bad habit of kicking, use the snaffle bit to prevent his lowering
the head and at the same time push him vigorously with the legs.
It is a mistake to always hold up a kicker's head; it
frequently happens that kicking is caused by some pain in the back or hocks and
if so, raising the animal's head will merely increase his irritability and
incite resistance.
Part Played by the Neck in Equitation.
When a horse is left to himself and is free to apply his own
natural methods, he makes uses of his head and neck as a balancer to keep his
forces in equilibrium or to modify their action. If he wishes to go forward, he
pushes out his head and extends his neck in order to shift the center of
gravity in the direction of the desired movement. If, on the contrary, he
wishes to go back, he pulls in his head and shortens his neck thus starting the
mass in the movement to the rear. In lateral movements, oblique or circular, it
is the same; the shifting of the head or neck to the right or left prepares,
favors and controls the animal's action.
At a walk, the head and neck are in constant motion in order
to take weight off the legs that are moving to the front and place weight on
those that rest on the ground.
At a gallop, the balancer is alternately raised and lowered
according as the horse is supported on the hind quarters or on the forehand and
is extended or brought in according as the gait is rapid or slow.
This shifting of the head and neck that we observe in the
horse at liberty should be noted when the horse is ridden. The rider should be
completely master of the neck and, when he gives his horse the signal for a
movement, should be able at the same time to set the neck in the position most
favorable to the execution of the movement. The neck is therefore a steering
gear as well as a balancer, and suppling exercises that involve this region
necessarily take up a large portion of the time devoted to training. But, it is
to be noted that these suppling must be confined to the upper part of the neck.
The neck must always offer an elastic resistance, suitable to its functions. If
it were too flexible and too easily moved, it could neither react on the hind
quarters nor control the movements of the forehand.
The Kind of Neck to
Select. The importance of the part played by the neck, shows the importance
that should be attached to its good conformation. A rider should always select
a long and powerful neck with the head well set on. And it should be remembered
that we said that in training it is more difficult to raise than to lower the
head; a high neck branching firmly from a sloping shoulder, will diminish the
difficulties of training and will permit the rider to produce more easily a
brilliant, well set up horse.
Different Positions
of the Neck. The neck should always preserve its muscled pose and even have
a certain amount of rigidity. Its position should be the same as that assumed
naturally, when the horse at liberty is in high spirits and standing still.
If, contrary to this principle, the experiment is made of
raising the head and neck too high, the play of the shoulders may be freer,
but, at the same time, the loins and all parts of the hind quarters will be
weighted down, and the haunches and hocks will be hampered in their action. As
a result, movements of the hind quarters will be constrained, unequal and jerky
and the gait will lose both speed and regularity.
If the neck is too low, the hind quarters will he more at
liberty but will not (for that reason) fulfill their functions any better; for,
since they cannot be brought up toward the center of gravity except by a
special, momentary and forcible application of the lower aids, they will promptly
go back again and will be relieved of the weight which is their proper share in
an equal distribution of forces; weight, we repeat, that tends to set the hind
quarters; weight that, when the neck is held at a suitable height, naturally
and properly falls back from the shoulders upon the haunches. If the hind
quarters are too free and do not carry their proper share of weight their
action is not favorable to smooth gaits.
Therefore, the position of the neck should be neither too
high nor too low. The neck must be able to shorten or lengthen itself according
as the face approaches or departs from the vertical.
The head, when drawn back, should bend the neck without
breaking it; when extended forward, it should stretch the neck without raising
it. When the horse is posed in this manner, the reins will retain full power
and both the front and hind legs will cooperate in any movements, either
lengthened or shortened, that the rider may exact.
Different Positions
of the Head. - In order that he may feel with uniformity the touch of his
rider's hand and in order not to impede his breathing, the horse's face should
be set a little forward of the vertical. This position should be taken for
ordinary gaits and for simple and regular movements.
The more we wish to shorten the gait, the more the face
should approach the vertical plane; on the other hand, the more we wish to
increase the speed, the more the face should depart from this plane.
In these last two cases the position of the head may also be
considered as normal since the gaits depend thereon.
The head may assume a faulty position; that is to say, one too
near or too far from the vertical; this may be due to defective conformation of
the forehand, faulty fitting of the bit, undue sensitiveness of the chin groove
or bars, or finally, and this is most frequently the case when horses throw the
nose into the air, to a defect in the conformation of some part of the hind
quarters.
These faulty positions can be combatted by the rider not
only by a judicious use of the aids, but by a careful selection of the bit, an
attentive fitting in the mouth and a studied adjustment of the curb chain".
Influence of
Conformation. All horses cannot be ridden in the same manner. General
principles of conduct and training remain the sane, but supplings vary according
to defects of conformation that must be overcome.
A horse of good conformation is easy to train: all that is
necessary is to teach him the language of aids and when he understands, everything
becomes simple to him. When, on the contrary, proper balance is wanting, it is
necessary not only to instruct him, but also, by means of protracted and well
understood exercises to establish an artificial equilibrium that will correct
natural defects.
A horse with croup too high and whole weight is on his
shoulders will not be trained along the same lines as one with high forehand or
weak hind quarters. In one case we must raise the head and force the weight back:
in the other we must lower the head and load the forehand. A good horseman must
therefore study his horse's conformation and adapt his methods of training to
the kind of resistance he encounters. This, in order to develop in the animal,
in action, a balance which is rarely to be found in young horses
